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Once, the name “Vietnam” signified not so much a country as a brutal jungle war or a spectacular failure of American power. In recent years, however, the lifting of Vietnamese government restrictions and the boom in budget traveling, have enabled more contemporary and relevant portraits of the country to gain currency in the West. An understanding of history still goes a long way in Vietnam, since the country has a unique civilization and a highly cultured people, but nobody needs to sweat to be entranced by the sublime scenery, the delicious cuisine and the opportunity to witness the invigorating, early days of Vietnam’s renewed contact with the West.

We traveled along the coast of Vietnam from Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An, Danang and finally to Saigon by plane, train and automobile! It was truly a memorable adventure and a country you cannot miss if you visit Southeast Asia!

Ho Chi Minh City is the heart and soul of Vietnam. It’s a bustling, dynamic and industrious centre, the largest city, the economic capital and the cultural trendsetter. The streets, where much of the city’s life takes place, is a myriad of shops, stalls, stands-on-wheels and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks. The city churns, ferments, bubbles and fumes. Yet within the teeming metropolis are the timeless traditions and beauty of an ancient culture. Sights include the Giac Lam Pagoda, the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, Reunification Hall, Cholon market and the former US embassy, scene of such havoc during the 1975 evacuations.

Reunification Palace

If buildings had psyches, this one would be lying on a very large couch be moaning its identity crisis. The original structure was erected by the French in 1868. After 1954, when Frenchmen became rather scarce rather quickly, Ngo Dinh Diem filled the void, renaming it Independence Palace. In 1962, an air raid failed to assassinate Diem but destroyed the Palace. A new mansion was completed by 1966, only to be bombed again by a disloyal South Vietnamese pilot in the early 1970s. The mansion’s latest incarnation occurred on April 30, 1975, when a DRV tank smashed through the gates. Once rebuilt, twice bombed, and thrice christened, today’s Reunification Palace remains frozen in its 1975 state.

Cu Chi Tunnels

We took the obligatory tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels - the infamous network of tunnels used by the Viet Cong during the war. Although its been rebuilt for tourists like a Vietnamese Disneyland, it was definitely worth visiting and a must see in Ho Chi Minh city. Just don’t eat too much before you go otherwise you may not be able to make it through the tunnels!

We traveled south from Hue to Hoi An by car passing by picturesque Lang Co fishing village to Hai Van Pass, with its fine views of the mountains and sea. We continued on to Danang stopping at the Cham Museum and China Beach. In the afternoon we arrived at Hoi An and had a great opportunity to explore this quaint, historic town. We visited the town’s riverside market, neighborhood pagodas, and the Japanese covered-bridge.

An important river port 30km (19mi) south of Danang, Hoi An is rich in history and has a unique character. It was a contemporary of Macau, attracting Dutch, Portuguese and Japanese trading vessels, and it retains the feel of centuries past. Its magnificent collection of almost 850 older structures and intact streetscapes just beg to be explored. They include merchants’ homes, pagodas, public buildings and a whole city block of colonnaded French buildings. This was one of our favorite cities in Vietnam and not to be missed!

Reputed to be the most beautiful city in Vietnam, Hué was the country’s capital from 1802 to 1945, and has long been a major cultural, religious and educational center. The remains of the huge, moated Citadel, constructed by the Emperor Gia Long from 1804, contain many interesting sights, such as the Nine Holy Cannons, the Imperial Enclosure, the Palace of Supreme Harmony and the Halls of the Mandarins. Sadly, the intriguing Purple Forbidden City was largely destroyed during the Vietnam War. About 15km (9mi) south of Hué are the Royal Tombs. Hué has many other places of religious and dynastic importance, and some good museums. Hué is about 700km (434mi) from Hanoi and 1100km (682mi) from Ho Chi Minh City. The Reunification Express train running between those cities stops here, and there are frequent flights and buses to both cities.

Smaller, quieter, greener and more dignified than Ho Chi Minh City, the nation’s capital can sometimes look like a provincial French city. This, like most things in Vietnam, is changing fast as economic restrictions are lifted and old regulations are forgotten. Life (and traffic, unfortunately) is abundant in the streets and shopping no longer means a trip to a dreary government department store.

Ho Chi Minh Memorial

Poor Ho Chi Minh could not escape his present, well preserved fate, despite his wishes to be cremated. Completed in 1975, the granite structure serves as a receiving stand for officials and party leaders. When visiting Uncle Ho, be certain to wear respectable attire: no shorts, short skirts or tank tops. No bags or bombs were allowed either and be sure to watch some of the native women’s reaction to seeing Uncle Ho. He really looks alive and some of the women in front of us burst into tears upon leaving his presence. I guess you should never under estimate the power of good propaganda!

Hanoi Hilton

The Hoa Lo Prison, nicknamed the Hanoi Hilton, held American POWs during the Vietnam War and Vietnamese revolutionaries during the French rule. Most of the prison was replaced by the Hanoi Towers skyscraper, containing a five-star hotel and shopping center, but a portion preserved on Pho Hoa Lo off Hai Ba Trung just before the Towers is now a small, self-explanatory museum. Its definitely worth a visit and don’t worry if you get there on a day its supposed to be closed. The guy there will open the place if you pay him the admission. Maison Centrale (aka Hanoi Hilton):

Air Force Museum

This museum is a little bit of distance from the main attractions in the city but is well worth the trip. You’ll get a full dose of Vietnamese propaganda and you can have your photo taken in a MIG! Notice that the pictures of the Vietnamese fighter pilot heroes all look like the same few guys! Doesn’t this analog instrumentation look ancient?

Scenes of Hanoi

We roamed the dense Old Quarter and walked to Hoan Kiem Lake for a water puppet show. Although we were unable to make an excursion to Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island, I was told that if we had more time we should go there. I’ve included some photos of that region for your viewing pleasure. As we walked the streets of Hanoi, it was great to observe the wonderful French architecture of the diplomatic neighborhoods and watch the merchant women wearing rattan hats and aiming to sell their day’s produce before heading back to their villages. At the end of our Hanoi visit, we transferred to the railway station and caught the Reunification Express south to Hué.

As stewards of the region’s most sophisticated transportation infrastructure, clean, cultured cities, and a reasonably well-protected natural environment, Malaysians have much of which to be proud. Perhaps the world’s most tolerant Muslim state, the country’s Malay majority rubs elbows with a Chinese population that accounts for a full third of the population and a sizeable Indian community. While the interaction isn’t without tension, it is a credit to the Malaysians that in the wake of the regional depression their society has stuck together while their massive neighbor to the south erupted in a bonfire of racial hatred. Malaysia’s ethnic mix mingles most in the cities of the cosmopolitan west coast. The sparsely populated east coast remains a bastion of sea faring Malay culture but is equally welcoming to respectful outsiders.

We enjoyed our time most in this region and highly recommend a trip to Kota Bharu if you decide to head east.

KUALA LUMPUR

Somewhere between its self-proclaimed splendor as the “garden City of Lights” and its literal English translation, “Muddy River Mouth,” lies the true capital of Malaysia. KL (as it’s almost exclusively called) has grown into a thriving city whose vertigo-inspiring towers and mega shopping malls are brilliantly balanced by verdant expanses of grass and rows of palm trees. Surrounded by an orgy of construction the locals exude contentment laced with the anticipation of good things to come. Its a nice respite from the sparse amenities in the rest of South East Asia but it sorely lacks in authentic culture. Probably the most unique sights are the women who sport Muslim scarfs and one-piece dresses. Aside from that, our suggestion is to get out of Dodge as quickly as possible!

Below are some pictures of the Petronas Twin Towers, currently the tallest buildings in the world, and the tallest flag pole in the world.  I’ve also included pictures I took of the KL Railway Station complete with domes, minarets and arches and Menara or KL Tower.

 

Batu Caves

This is probably one of the only sights in KL worth going to. In January and February, hundreds of Hindu devotees descend for the annual Thaipusam Festival, armed with hooks and needles with which to pierce their skin. For the rest of the year, the caves are home to a community of docile wild monkeys and are open to the public. We climbed the 272 steps to the main cave and viewed the Gallery Cave’s painting of Hindu mythology. Definitely worth a visit!

    

MELAKA

Melaka is a small city outside of KL.  There are a lot of tour buses that shuttle people back and forth and my recommendation is don’t be one of them!  Its not much of a city except for a few interesting tombstones shown below.

 

PENANG

Discovered in 1786 by Francis Light and his British East India Company, the fertile Penang Island was then called Prince of Wales Island and remained under British control until 1957. The British never left much of a mark but the tourists who flock there every year have! This was probably one of the most disappointing segments of our trip because everywhere we went we were reminded that Penang has now become one of the biggest tourist traps in Southeast Asia! Probably the best thing to do (aside from enjoying the beaches) is to rent a scooter and head to the Snake Temple.

  

KOTA BHARU

Kota Bharu is one of the most attractive urban centers in Malaysia. Among a handful of cities in Malaysia with a majority Malay population, the capital of Kelantan state brims with an amiable character that bucks stereotypes of Muslim conservatism. The daily performance of local cultural pastimes (top-spinning, kite-flying, silat, drum-beating, dancing, and puppeteering) are certainly worth a visit. If you go anywhere in Malaysia, go here!

Gelanggang Seni / Cultural Center

Since the state is largely agrarian, the work life of the people closely matches the crop cycle. Once harvesting is complete, the Malaysian people have ample free time thus they pursue many extracurricular hobbies. The city’s cultural center exhibits these past times for tourists by sponsoring free drum beating contests, kite-flying, top-spinning, and martial arts (silat) demonstrations. There are also performances of wayang kulit (shadow-puppet shows), dance and drama. One of the pictures below includes a Kota Bharu’s #1 Kitemaster preparing a top demo.

    

Tops are a big part of the Kota Bharu culture.  Top fighting is a common past time and is a loose adaptation of marbles.  In addition, the top spinning contest is won by the top that has the longest time.

 

Kota Bharu is also a fishing town so we visited the local fisheries and observed their daily catch.

  

Central Market

The markets are an amazing place to visit.  Much to Lauren’s chagrin, I ate some of the steet foods (mostly naans with curry) and negotiated on a few items.  Some of the items I tried to acquire included songkets (cloths of gold/silver and cotton) and batik (wax with color on fabric). I quickly learned that Muslim women can be very tough negotiators!

   

The islands of the Indonesian archipelago stretch almost 5000km (3100mi) from the Asian mainland into the Pacific Ocean. Richly endowed with natural resources and hosting a phenomenal array of distinct cultures, for centuries they have been a magnet to Chinese and Indian traders, European colonisers, proselytising missionaries, wayward adventurers, mining companies, intrepid travelers and package tourists. The islands are inhabited by 300 ethnic groups with distinct cultures, speaking 365 languages and dialects. Despite the national motto `unity in diversity’, these cultures are under threat from Indonesianisation as the islands are gradually unified under centralized Javanese rule. The multicultural concept of strength in difference has been a hard one to maintain in the face of such geographic and cultural fragmentation, and the Indonesian government has opted for strong, centralized and undemocratic rule.

The consolidation of the Indonesian empire has met with resistance and insurgencies but these have largely been ignored by the international community. The country was stable until the recent economic crisis, mainly because political opposition was repressed and government authority rested squarely on the foundation of military power. After Suharto’s downfall, second guessing the direction Indonesia would take became every foreign correspondents’ favorite pastime.

Increasing tensions between Muslims and Christians, ethnic tensions in Kalimantan, and independence movements in Aceh and Irian Jaya certainly don’t augur well for the new Habibe government but it is the East Timorese situation which buries any notion of a free and democratic Indonesia. East Timor’s vote for independence lit a match to the inflammatory emotions of Indonesian nationalism. Patriotic militia went on a scorched earth rampage around East Timor and the country descended into chaos and martial law. An ugly brand of jingoism swept across most of Indonesia and westerners became the brunt of much wounded pride.

If you wish to visit Indonesia, we suggest going to Yogyakarta in Java and the island of Bali. Both areas are very safe for tourists and are full of many wonderful sights. Just be aware of the violence and strife occurring in the rest of the country and don’t needlessly display your wealth!

Java is the political, geographic and economic center of the Indonesian archipelago. It’s a relatively small island, (approximately the same size as England) but has a population of 112 million, accounting for 55% of the country’s total population. The island is long and narrow, with a string of volcanic mountains punctuating its spine. It was on Java that the Hindu-Buddhist empires reached their zenith, producing architectural wonders such as Borobudur and Prambanan. When Islam came to the island in the 15th century, it absorbed rather than erased local cultures, leaving Java with a mish-mash of historic influences and religions. A strong consciousness of ancient religious and mystical thought carries over into present-day Java, providing a bulwark against wholesale modernization.

Much of the young republic’s history was hacked out of Javanese soil - including the major independence battles, the emergence of the two strongest political parties and the pro-democracy protests and riots which led to the recent downfall of Suharto. Today the island plays an extraordinarily dominant role in Indonesia. To a large extent, the rebellions of the Sumatrans, Minahasans and Ambonese in the 1950s and 1960s were rebellions against Javanese domination of the archipelago.

The island is certainly the most developed in the Indonesian archipelago, but despite its political and economic primacy it is still struggling with the twin demons of overpopulation and poverty. We only visited Yogyakarta but everywhere we went we were confronted by a society in transition - one which is keen to embrace the benefits of modernity and reform but determined not to lose its heritage in the process. Thus fast-food joints, shopping malls, satellite TV and the other material accouterments of the West live cheek by jowl with a vibrant traditional culture centered not on the individual, but around the family, the village and religious piety.

Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta or ‘Yogya’ is easily the most popular city in Indonesia. It’s a cultural and intellectual center, crammed with prestigious universities and academies, and its influence far outweighs its size. Sure it has noisy and chaotic traffic like any Javanese city, but just a short stroll away from the main streets are the kampungs (food stalls) where life is still unhurried. Despite its veneer of modernity and westernisation, the city clings strongly to its traditional values and philosophies. Traditional performing arts (Ramayana Ballet, gamelan performances etc) can be seen at the Yogyakarta Craft Center and the Agastya Art Institute. It is also a major craft center, especially for batik. The walled-in kraton compound, in the city center, is a city within a city. The kraton is home to 25,000 people and includes the sultan’s huge palace, the Taman Sari (also known as the water castle or fragrant garden), a bird market and several craft industries. There are several worthwhile museums in the city, including the Sono-Budoyo Museum and Benteng Vredeburg. The suburb of Kota Gede has been famous since the 1930s as the center of Yogya’s silver industry, and is still a great place to wander around and watch the silversmiths at work.

Borobudur Temple

Borobudur Temple is one of the greatest Buddhist relics in South-East Asia and is Indonesia’s most famous attraction. Rulers of the Sailendra dynasty built the colossal pyramid of Borobudur between 750 and 850 AD, but very little else is known about the site’s early history except that a huge workforce must have been harnessed to shift and carve the 60,000 cu m (196,800 cu ft) of stone used in its construction. With the decline of Buddhism and the shift of power to East Java, Borobudur was soon abandoned and for centuries lay hidden under layers of volcanic ash. It was only in 1815 that the site was cleared and the technical skill and imagination of the builders was revealed. A mammoth US$21-million restoration program undertaken between 1973 and 1984 returned much of the complex to its former glory. The Mendut and Pawon temples nearby are important parts of the complex, though easily overlooked by visitors to the main site. Borobudur is 40km (25mi) north-west of Yogya.

Prambanan Temple

The Hindu temple, Prambanan (also known as Lorojonggrang Temple ) is located at Bokoharjo Village, Prambanan, east of Yogya. The exact date of when the Lorojonggrang Temple was built was still in argument. There are two differing opinions regarding who built the Temple. One opinion stated that there was only one, dynasty, Cailendra Dynasty, before Lorojonggrang Temple was built. The second opinion stated that there were two dynasties, Cailendra and Sanjaya Dynasty. Cailendra Dynasty occupied the southern part of Central Java, whereas Sanjaya Dynasty occupied the northern part. Buddhist temples were found mostly in the Southern part of Central Java, and that the Ciwa Temples (Hindu) were found in Northern part of Central Java.

Bali is so picturesque that you could be fooled into thinking it was a painted backdrop: rice paddies trip down hillsides like giant steps, volcanoes soar through the clouds, the forests are lush and tropical, and the beaches are lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. But the postcard paradise gloss has been manufactured and polished by the international tourist industry rather than by the Balinese themselves and it pays scant regard to the hard reality of life on Bali, which is currently suffering the fallout of Indonesia’s economic crisis and collapsing currency.

Bali remained calm in 1998 while many islands in the archipelago expressed their anger at the economic and political situation. Though tourism took a downturn in the first half of this year, visitors have flocked to the island in droves over the past 20 years. You’ll find locals living in traditional houses and participating in a timeless round of religious rituals and rice cultivation. In fact, the Balinese seem to handle tourism better than some of the tourists, many of whom are happy to be able to get a Coke but seem disappointed that they’re not the only ones sucking back the real thing.

Ubud

Ubud is situated in the hills 20km (13mi) north of Denpasar, Ubud is the serene cultural center of Bali. Extensive development in recent years has meant that Ubud has engulfed a number of nearby villages, although these have retained their distinct identities. Head off in any direction and you’re in for an interesting walk to a secluded craft hamlet, through the rice paddies or into the dense Monkey Forest, just south of the town center.

Kecak / Fire Dance

The Kecak dance is a Balinese dance of the Hindu story Ramanyana, accompanied by a male chorus with chants, shouts, and recitations of highly rhythmic and complex interlocking syllables that are intended to sound like a forest of monkeys. Before the evening’s dancing begins, a pedanda or local priest holds a frangipani blossom between his fingers and dips it into holy water to sprinkle over the temple courtyard and the waiting dancers. In the righthand tray are typical temple offerings, to honor the gods and ask their blessing on the assembly. About 100 men of the banjar (village asociation) sit in a great circle by lamplight and chant the famous “monkey chorus” of ka-CHAK, ka-CHAK which gives the dance its name. Many cultures use “mouth music” of one sort or another, but we thought that kecak is one of the most infectious kinds we’ve ever heard. The men really get into it, and so do the crowds!

The second dance is the Fire dance which entails a man posing as a chicken running around in a trancelike state. A bonfire is set in the middle of the floor as he runs around it frantically. Then, all of a sudden he leaps into the middle of the fire and kicks the glowing embers in all directions with his bare feet. He proceeds to do this until the fire is completely out and the embers no longer glow. It was really quite an amazing sight and one well worth seeing again. It should be noted that trance dancing by men and women, children and adults, is an event which the Balinese treat with great respect. Skeptical Westerners may suspect fakery, or at least regard such performances as staged rather than authentic, but we do well to remember that they were a part of sacred temple ritual for many centuries before the first busload of tourists hit Bali.

Barong / Kris Dance

The Barong dance is a short extract from the much longer and seldom seen Calonarang drama. It is nonetheless an impressive spectacle. It describes the eternal conflict between Ratu Barong, the faithful guardian of the community and the pendulous-breasted Rangda, demonic mistress of the graveyard. Our show closed with a Kris dance, in which young men get into trance and stab themselves with krises, yet remain unhurt.

Burial / Cremation Ceremony

The Hindu people of Bali cremate their dead in an elaborate ceremony complete with processions, garlands, and effigies. However, the costs of cremation have rapidly risen over the years resulting in many local Balinese being unable to cremate their loved ones at death. Instead, the dead are buried in shallow graves and their bodies are exhumed from the ground once enough people have died in a single village to warrant a mass cremation. This system of mass cremation is not only an amazing spectacle for all to behold but is also generally the only economic means by which the local Balinese can continue this ancient tradition.

Monkey Forest Sanctuary

The Monkey Forest Sanctuary is located in Padangtegal, Ubud. The monkeys congregate in a small forest area adjoining the temple Pura Dalem Agung which is the greatest of three main temples in the Padangtegal village. The temple complex consist of a holy bathing temple, a mortality temple, two graveyards, and the Pura Dalem Agung.

The monkeys are long tailed Macacaqua monkeys (Macaca Fascicularis). Although the monkey population varies, it consist of more than 150 monkeys. The monkey is important in Balinese culture and you find it featured in the Kecak Dance and the Ramayana Epic. Tourist should beware the agile hands of the monkey, which can quickly borrow your glasses or other loose possessions.  Although they may seem tame at times, they are nevertheless wild animals and at times react accordingly. This is a great place to visit, walking through the trails of the monkey forest and visiting the adjoining temple.

As thoroughly steeped in political controversy as it is in a rich and varied past, Myanmar provided a truly unique travel experience. The country has been a virtual hermit state since the 1960s and as the rest of Southeast Asia has experienced the most dramatic economic growth in world history, Myanmar, once the region’s richest country, has joined the ranks of the world’s destitute. The country’s military regime has bucked the trend towards greater political and social liberalization, reneging on democratic elections and crushing the pro-democracy movement.

Despite these political issues, Myanmar offered a rich panoply of golden stupas, landmark temples, ancient monuments, picturesque lakes and unspoiled mountain scenery. There were so many memorable experiences including the myriad pagodas of Bagan studding a vast plain by the Irrawaddy River, crimson-robed novices chanting by the golden Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, and everywhere the gentle, generous and long-suffering people.

YANGON (formerly RANGOON)

Streets of Yangon Upon arriving in Yangon, we were greeted by tree-lined avenues, fine Victorian architecture, bustling markets and picturesque waterfront. We saw pagodas and vintage World War Two buses everywhere amongst the local people who were dressed in sarongs and had their faces covered with tree bark cream. We were told that the cream is used to reduce oiliness and acne in the skin. Apparently everyone we met believed it because everyone was wearing it.

City Streets Lined With Pagodas and Temples

Victorian-Style Buildings From WWII

Dilapidated Buildings Are the Norm in Yangon

Local Family With Traditional Wear and FaceCream

Sule Pagoda

This pagoda located smack in the center of the city is reputed to date back over 2,000 years. It enshrines a hair relic of the Buddha brought over by two missionaries from India and presented to Dagon minister Maha Sura. Its name means “the pagoda enshrining the sacred hair.” Its octagonal shape architecturally thematizes the eight planetary posts of the Myanmar zodiac. Among the many sights, there are numerous monks paying homage, shrines designed in “amusement park” form, golden Buddha statues and a giant golden stupa.

Golden Stupa at Sule Pagoda

Golden Buddha

Novice Monks, A Common Site in Southeast Asia

“Amusement Park” Style Buddha Altar

Shwedagon Pagoda

This amazing shrine has 8,600 one-ounce slabs of gold used to tile the stupa and thousands of diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and other precious stones that sparkle in the rays of the sun. The compound is covered with hundreds of images, statues, and endless processions of bare-footed worshippers all paying their respects.

This is the most sacred structure in Myanmar and the marquis attraction of Yangon. According to legend, Taphussa and Bhallika, two traders hailing from Okkala (Yangon’s old name), traveled to India on business some 2,500 years ago. They encountered Gautama Buddha perched under the bodhi tree 49 days after gaining Enlightenment. Noting the halo of six vibrant rays surrounding him, they held him in veneration and made offerings of rice cakes and honey. The Buddha, in return, conveyed his mastery of the Law in a sermon. Granting their request for an object of worship, he stroked his right hand through his hair yielding eight hairs. When the two men returned home, King Okkalapa ordered the enshrinement of the hairs, along with relics from the three preceding Buddhas, in a pagoda on Singuttara Hill. The male nat Sakka delivered from heaven six marble slabs of silver, diamond, emerald, pearl, sapphire, and ruby for creation of a relic chamber. This chamber was filled knee deep with a sea of precious stones, and a boat carrying the sacred relics and more gems was placed afloat; Sakka himself sealed the chamber with the ruby slab. Over the ruby slab, builders constructed a Russian doll-like sequence of superimposed pagodas made successively of gold, silver, tin, copper, lead, marble, and iron, and sealed with lime, glue, mortar, and plaster. They then studded the pagoda with jewels. While the original structure measured only 22m, Shwedagon presently stands at a remarkable 109m, having survived countless restorations and embellishments.

Shwedagon Pagoda Covered in Gold Leaf

Pilgrims Pouring Cups of Water (Number Corresponding To Age) On Heads of Buddha Statues at Eight Equally Spaced Planetary Post Shrines

Mammoth Bells Carrying The Wishes of Pilgrims in their Resounding Hums

Surrounded in the Splendor of Shwedagon

A Few of the 64 Minature Pagodas Located in the 46 Hectare Pagoda Terrace

One of Many Novice Monks Paying Homage

Kyaukhatgyi Pagoda

This pagoda literally means “six story pagoda”. It contains an enormous 70m long reclining Buddha and has very ornate footprints that contain the distinguishing marks of Buddha. Kyaukhatgyi also lends its namesake to a famous monastery attached to the pagoda. Over 600 monks study Buddhist scriptures and the Pali language and literatures.

Giant Reclining Buddha

Buddha Footprints With His Distinguishing Marks

Propaganda / Political Environment

Since 1962, Myanmar has been governed by a brutal military regime. Although there have been resistance movements and pro-democracy demonstrations, these initiatives have generally been swiftly crushed by the military government. Even in 1990, when democratic elections were held and the National League for Democracy (NLD) won almost 90% of the vote, the military rounded up all of the leaders and placed them under house arrest. Needless to say, the regime has little care for the views of its people.

During our excursions in Yangon, we actually tried to visit the house of the leader of the NLD, Aung San Suu Kyi. Upon arriving at the street where her house was located, we were surrounded by plain clothes policemen and asked to leave. Although they did not threaten us, they scared the #%$@! out of our cab driver who was told never to bring anyone else there if he wanted to live a happy and fruitful life.

Plenty of Propaganda in the Streets and Local Newspaper (”The New Light of Myanmar”)

Poem in the Newspaper Obviously Targeted Against Pro-Democracy Leader, Aung San Suu Kyi

MANDALAY

Mandalay Hill

We traveled by minibus to Mandalay Hill, a hill that rises 236m above the northeast corner of town and gives you a great views of the city. Covered stairways work their way up the south and west faces of the sacred hill; climbing the 700+ stairs took us about 30 minutes. The series of temples leading to teh summit seem a bit newfangled and lacking in direction, with the exception of the Shweyattaw image close to the top. Here, the statue of Gautama Buddha points prophetically to the site of the Royal Palace. Aside from the views, there are crazy fortune tellers and friendly children waiting for you at the top.

Shweyattaw Image Points To Mandalay City

Playful Burmese Children At The Summit

Ayerwaddy River

We spent a full day on the Ayerwaddy River and enjoyed some interesting scenes: women pounding their laundry on rocks, people sailing bamboo rafts, travelers and merchants bartering at stops along the river, villagers begging for money or food, fisherman catching dinner, and even a dead body floating in the water.

The last sight was completely unexpected by our group. Perhaps even more shocking than the notion of a corpse floating down the river was the fact that the captain of the ferry did not stop (or blink an eyelid for that matter). One can only postulate how the man died or what else goes on in a country where death under mysterious circumstances is better left unquestioned.

The Banks of the River - Looks Like A Flooded City in the Midwest?

Local Villagers Waving Mingalaba (Hello)

Local Ferry Stop Complete With Merchants

Impromptu Ferry Stop Created To Let A Military VIP Disembark in the Middle of Nowhere

Fishermen Along The Ayerwaddy

BAGAN (formerly PAGAN)

“The City of Four Million Pagodas”

Dubbed the city of four million pagodas, Bagan is the unquestioned cradle of Myanmar culture. No trip is complete to Myanmar without a trip to the Bagan Archaeological Zone, a 42 square kilometer sun drenched plain with no fewer than 4216 extant temples, pagodas, and other religious edifices.

While little is known about its founding, reputed to date to the 9th century, scholars agree that the two and a half centuries following King Anawrahta’s ascension to the throne in 1044 mark the pinnacle of Bagan’s splendor. Dissatisfied with the repertories of religious practices predominant among his people, mainly a mix of Mahayana Buddhism and indigenous animism, Anawrahta single-handedly launched a full-scale rejuvenation of Theravada Buddhism, leading to its establishment as a national religion. He also inaugurated a wild flurry of temple construction, convincing architects, masons, artists, and carvers to settle in Bagan. While time has seen the destruction of the region’s wooden structures, its stalwart brick edifices give a stirring testimony to a civilization whose prolific contributions to humankind may never be surpassed.

Ananda Temple

Built around the turn of the 12th century, Anandais said to represent the pinnacle of the early style of Bagan period design. With its four enormous gabled entrances leading to a 53m high square block at the center of the termple, it resembles a perfectly symmetrical Greek Cross. On each side of the central square block is an alcove housing Buddha images standing 10m high. With no shortage of donations, Ananda Temple enjoys fresh coats of white paint and copious attachments of gold leaf quite regularly.

Thatbyinnyu Temple

Built in 1144 by King Alaungsithu, is the highest structure in the vicinity. It resembles two gargantuan white stacked cubes, with the upper one set back above three intermediate terraces. Its intricate architecture is representative of the transition from early to late Bagan styles.

Dhammayangyi Temple

This is one of the most massive temples on the entire Bagan plain. Its unsurpassed brickwork, considered a crowning achievement of later period temples, flaunts virtually airtight gaps between individual bricks.

Novices Seeking Alms Daily Alms Ritual

As part of their daily life, monks and novices seek donations from the local community around Bagan. Because monks are not beggars, they do not ask for donations outright.

Rather they line up in a morning procession with bowls extended and march from their monastery to the city and back - never stopping once. Locals and tourists alike place donations in the bowl while the procession is in motion. The entire morning walk takes about 2 hours and is done every day.

Mount Popa / Nat Temple

Mount Popa arose from the ground following a colossal earthquake in 442 BC. It is the center of Nat worship, a religion based on the worship of a plethora of gods each with human tendencies, and home of the Mingalazedi Pagoda. Its about a one and a half hour drive from Bagan through farms filled with rice, palm trees and moonshine!! To reach the top its quite a hike and you have to go through armies of monkeys, many of which are harmless. Even though Buddha has been incorporated into the Nat religion as the supreme being, the temple is sufficiently different to justify a visit. One word of advice - don’t annoy the monkeys!

Local Pharmacy - See Any Tylenol?

Nat Altar

Monkeys Seeking Bananas

Palm Moonshine Is Definitely a Keeper!

Local Children Heading To School

Our Companion, Bill Blair, Making an Offering to the Nats