Archive for November, 2001

United Kingdom

Posted in U.K. on November 30th, 2001 by daveliu

The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the United Kingdom or the UK) is a constitutional monarchy in northern Europe. The Union comprises four home nations: England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland.  It occupies all of the island of Great Britain, the north-eastern portion of the island of Ireland and most of the remaining British Isles. 

The UK today is a diverse patchwork of native and immigrant cultures, possessing a fascinating history and dynamic modern culture, both of which remain hugely influential in the wider world. Although Britannia no longer rules the waves, the UK is still a popular destination for many travellers. The capital city of the United Kingdom (and the largest city) is London. Enjoy!

Ireland

Posted in Ireland on November 24th, 2001 by daveliu

ireland.gifTis said that Ireland, once visited, is never forgotten, and for once the blarney rings true. The Irish landscape has a mythic resonance, due as much to the country’s almost tangible history as its claim to being the home of the fairies, Leprechauns, shamrocks, four-leaf clovers and the “little people”. Sure, the weather may not always be clement, but the dampness ensures there are fifty shades of green to compensate - just one of the reasons Ireland is called the Emerald Isle.

Ireland will always have a special place in our hearts because that is where I proposed to Lauren in November 2001. All the more fitting given that she is born on St. Patrick’s Day, the birthday of the patron saint of Ireland.

Although the unrest is far from over in the North, the recent referendum clearly signaled a willingness for peace and a genuine solution may be in sight. Meanwhile, the South has been busy shedding its quaintness tag to emerged as the darling of EU economies and a favorite among high-tech companies. If the country isn’t quite the paradise that its misty-eyed émigrés tend to portray, it’s nonetheless home to one of the most gregarious and welcoming people in Europe.

DUBLIN

Ireland’s capital, and its largest and most cosmopolitan city, Dublin makes a fine introduction to the country. It’s a curious and colorful city of fine Georgian buildings, tangible literary history and extremely welcoming pubs, all on a scale that’s very human. The city is bisected by the River Liffey, and is bounded to the north and south by hills. Most of the sights of interest are located south of the Liffey, which unlike most city rivers is a rural-looking stream with real fish living in it. The area to the north of the Liffey may be more run down than the south, but, according to Roddy Doyle, it’s got more soul. This city is a must visit for any traveler to Ireland - especially if you are a single male! A friend told me that the ratio of single women to men is approximately 3 to 1!!!

Trinity College is uppermost in the list of attractions south of the river. Founded by Elizabeth I in 1592, the university complex boasts a campanile and many glorious old buildings. Its major attraction, however, is the Book of Kells - an illuminated manuscript dating from around 800 AD, making it one of the oldest books in the world. The masterpiece is housed in the Library Colonnades. Other magnificent buildings include the imposing Bank of Ireland, originally built to house the Irish Parliament; Christ Church Cathedral, parts of which date back to the original wooden Danish church of the 11th century; and St. Patrick’s Cathedral, said to have been built on the site where St. Patrick baptized his converts, and dating from 1190 or 1225 (opinions differ).

Below is a picture of us having dinner with our good friend Adele!

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Bank of Ireland

Notice the bank has no windows! Apparently there was a tax on sunlight so many old buildings in Dublin have no windows. Our tour guide also informed us that the phase “can’t see the light of day” originated from these times. Who knows?

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Christ Church Cathedral

Christ Church Cathedral is one of Dublin’s oldest and most magnificent features. The site dates from around 1030 AD, and has seen a long succession of enhancements which reflect the history of Dublin itself. Definitely visit the crypt!!!

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Molly Malone Statue

Bronze casting of Molly Malone at the end of Grafton Street.

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Guinness Brewery

No visit to Dublin is complete without a trip to the world famous Guinness brewery in Dublin. The Guinness Hopstore situated in the heart of old Dublin, is your introduction to the world’s most famous creamy stout. Established in 1876, when Guinness was poised to become the largest brewery in the world, the Hopstore remained crammed with hopstack until 1957 when another hopstore replaced it.

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The Hopstore has now been converted into one of the finest venues for historical and cultural exhibitions and events. There are regular tours which allow you to sit back and enjoy a sample or two of the stout in the comfortable surroundings of the Visitor’s Bar.

The tour includes an audiovisual presentation which demonstrates how Guinness is made. Although entry to the brewery itself is not allowed, an admission to the Brewery gets you a free pint of Guinness!! To some, it can be pleasurable…and to others it can be torture!!

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DOOLIN/CLIFFS OF MOHER

Located a short distance from the small town of Doolin on the West Coast of Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher are a spectacular place to visit. It was at the Cliffs, in Liscannor on the coast of West Clare, that I proposed to Lauren. Natural ramparts against the might of the Atlantic, the Cliffs rise to over 800 feet and stretch for miles. It is here that the visitor can most easily get a feel for the wildness of the terrain over which the Celts wandered. O’Brien’s Tower, constructed in the early 19th century as a viewing point for Victorian tourists, is located on Moher’s highest cliff. From its vantage point you can view the Clare coastline, the Aran Islands and mountains as far apart as Kerry and Connemara.

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The story of our engagement is one of luck and serendipity - fitting given our childhood friendship, lack of contact for over 10 years, and our subsequent romance! I had planned to ask Lauren at a memorable place in Ireland given her birth on St. Patrick’s Day, the patron saint of Ireland. After scouring the isle for the ideal location, I had decided to ask her at the Cliffs of Moher. However, to get to the Cliffs, we had to purchase a ticket on the train from Dublin to the eastern part of Ireland. I had decided that I would do this the day before I was to propose and make sure we had ample time to do so.

On the eve of my proposal, we visited the Guiness Brewery. As “bad” luck would have it, Lauren decided that since we were in arguably the most famous brewery in the world, and we were given a free pint as part of our admission, she was determined to drink an entire pint of stout! This would represent the most alcohol she has EVER drunk in a single sitting. So, needless to say, she was drunk by mid afternoon and walking as snail’s pace.

As we were nearing the end of the day, I began to worry about getting to the station in time to buy the tickets. As I rushed to the counter, I realized they were closing in 10 minutes. When I asked the salesperson for two tickets, she said: “Luv, come back ‘ere tomorra’! It’s closin’ time!” After explaining to her that I had just flown thousands of miles from the U.S. and had to return the day after tomorrow, she volunteered to call the home office to see if they might still be willing to sell me a ticket! (*now I know why the European economy is so lousy*). After two phone calls, a growing ulcer, and a couple Hail Mary’s, we got through and they agreed to sell me two tickets!! Finally, the luck of the Irish was smiling on me!

The following day, we got to the Cliffs via bus from the train station. It was a windy and rainy day but breathtaking nonetheless. Lauren and I walked to the highest point on the Cliffs at O’Briens Tower. It was here that I surprised her with an “early” Christmas gift and gave her a jewelry box. On the cover I had inscribed a limerick which contained my proposal. After she recovered from her initial shock, she opened the box to find a ring and a shamrock bracelet! As luck would have it, she said yes! The rest, as they say, is history.

Below is O’Briens Tower where we were engaged and the post-engagement picture of us hanging on the precipice!  The last photo is of me at the Tomb on the Burren.

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Scotland

Posted in U.K., Scotland on November 20th, 2001 by daveliu

Its people are feisty, opinionated and fiercely loyal. The country is wild, untamed and beautiful. The bad climate adds an edge to both. Buoyed by the continued irritant of England on its doorstep, Scotland has survived encroachment, brass-monkey weather and the annual influx of stand-up comedians arriving for the Edinburgh Festival. But its people have a rock-solid identity and sense of self. On top of that, the Scots haven’t eaten their waterways and forests bare. Scotland’s lamb, beef, venison, trout and salmon are highly prized, and game birds such as grouse and pheasant abound. Wash all this down with a shot or two of the world’s best whisky and you’ll be warming very quickly to the Scottish way of life. Definitely schedule a visit to the land that gave us haggis, kilts and the Highlander!

EDINBURGH

Edinburgh sticks shockingly up-to-the-nanosecond dance clubs in 15th-century tenement buildings and body-stockinged firebreathers outside Georgian mansions: This is a city that knows how to blend modern and medieval. Its superb architecture ranges from ancient churches to monumental Victorian masterpieces - all dominated by a castle on a precipitous crag in the city’s heart. And pick any street to stroll - you’ll be wowed by sudden vistas of rugged summits, memorial-laden hills and erstwhile-outlying villages that inch ever closer to the vibrant city center. A definite must-visit for anyone looking to visit Scotland!

Below are some snap shots including a view of the city, Princess street, bagpipes and kilts, the Cathedral on Royal Mile and a kilt factory.

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Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle dominates the city center, sitting astride the core of an extinct volcano, its three sides scoured almost vertical by glacial action. Although the castle looks impregnable, it often changed hands between the Scots and English throughout the centuries. By the mid-18th century, however, the castle looked much as it does today. Partly in thanks to Sir Walter Scott, in the 19th century it began to recover its importance as a Scottish symbol.

We entered from the Esplanade, a parade ground where the changing of the guard occurs on the hour. Sights within the castle proper include Mills Mount Battery, where a gun salute takes place on weekdays; St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh; the Palace, built between the 15th and 16th centuries; and the Scottish United Services Museum, which houses displays on the history of Scottish regiments.

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Palace of Holyroodhouse

Founded as a monastery in 1128, the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh is the Queen’s official residence in Scotland. Situated at the end of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is closely associated with Scotland’s turbulent past, including Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived here between 1561 and 1567. Successive kings and queens have made the Palace of Holyroodhouse the premier royal residence in Scotland. Today, the Palace is the setting for State ceremonies and official entertaining. We visited the Royal Apartments which were decorated with magnificent works of art from the Royal Collection.

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ST. ANDREWS

If you have any interest in golf, a visit to Scotland is not completed without a visit to St. Andrews. A small quaint town that came into being around 1144, it prides itself as establishing the first university in Scotland in 1411 and creating the game of golf in 1552. I suggest you go visit and play a few rounds of golf!!

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STIRLING

Stirling, another quaint town to the west of Edinburgh and north of Glasgow, is the home of the Wallace Monument. One of the best vantage points from which to view Stirling is the top of the national Wallace Monument, a prominent Victorian tower which stands above the river on a rocky crag and catches the eye for miles around. In the 1850’s there was a tide of nationalism that swept across the globe. One of the outcomes was the erection of the National Wallace Monument in memory of a great Scottish hero. The original structure was completed in 1869 with an addition to the building at a later date. This addition was the “Hall of Heroes” in which you can find marble sculptures of other Scottish heroes as well as information concerning such greats as Robert the Bruce, Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns and David Livingston.

Below are pictures of the Wallace Monument, Wallace’s legendary sword, the Wallace Monument and a memorial sculpted by a diehard braveheart fan.

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England

Posted in England on November 17th, 2001 by daveliu

The notion of England as a gentle, fabled land freeze framed sometime in the 1930s, when community life revolved around the post office, the country pub and the local vicarage. The country is now better known for vibrant cities with great night life and attractions, contrasted with green and pleasant countryside and national parks. After several years of Tony Blair’s Labor government, “new” Britain is a country with a fresh and cuddly Royal family and all of the trappings of a leading economic power. Still, a country that gives a wig-wearing ex-junkie balladeer a knighthood must be doing something right.

LONDON

London is a cosmopolitan mixture of the Third and First Worlds, of chauffeurs and beggars, of the establishment, the avowedly working class and the avant-garde. Unlike comparable European cities, much of London looks unplanned and grubby, but that is part of its appeal. Visiting London is like being let loose on a giant-sized Monopoly board clogged with traffic.  Even though you probably won’t know where you are exactly, the names will at least look reassuringly familiar. The city is so enormous, you will need to make maximum use of the Tube, London’s underground train system.

We love visiting London because it not only gives us an opportunity to spend an entire paycheck on dinner :-( but also have dinner with friends and hang out in the trendiest parts of Piccadilly.

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Tower of London

The Tower has been a castle, a palace and a prison during its long history and it remains one of the capital’s most important sights. A good introduction is provided by the free, hour-long guided tours that depart every half-hour, hosted by the chubby Beefeaters (more soberly known as Yeoman Warders).

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The oldest part of the complex is William the Conqueror’s White Tower, begun in 1076. It now houses portions of the Royal Armories and the austere Chapel of St. John, which, dating from 1080, is the oldest church in London. Although popularly notorious as a site of aristocrat beheadings, only seven people were ever executed on Tower Green; a plaque in the center of the green records their names. The 19th-century Waterloo Barracks, north of the White Tower, contain the celebrated Crown Jewels, the centerpiece of which is the Imperial State Crown, set with a 317-carat diamond.

Tower Bridge

Despite its mock-Gothic appearance, Tower Bridge was actually a pioneering steel-framed structure. London’s most famous bridge, which opened in 1894, was once described as a colossal symbol of the British genius.  

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St. Paul’s Cathedral

Half the world saw the inside of St. Paul’s Cathedral when Charles and Di tied the knot here in 1981. The venerable building was constructed by Christopher Wren between 1675 and 1710, but it stands on the site of two previous cathedrals dating back to 604. Its famous dome, the biggest in the world after St. Peter’s in Rome, no longer dominates London as it did for centuries, but it’s still quite a sight when viewed from the river. Definitely try the whispering gallery, which carries words spoken close to its walls to the other side of the dome.

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The Imperial War Museum

The Imperial War Museum is unique in its coverage of conflicts, especially those involving Britain and the Commonwealth, from the First World War to the present day. It seeks to provide for, and to encourage, the study and understanding of the history of modern war and war-time experience. 

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Kensington Palace

Living by the river at Whitehall aggravated William III’s asthma, so, in 1689, he and Mary, looking for a new home, bought this modest Jacobean mansion then known as Nottingham House. Wren and Hawksmoor (and, later, William Kent) were drafted in to redesign the building, which remained the favored royal residence until the reign of George III (he preferred Buckingham House). The future Queen Victoria was born in the palace in 1819, and it has latterly been known as the last home of Princess Di (only one of a number of royal residents).  Lauren is pictured below standing in front of the entrance where numerous wreaths and flowers once were deposited as a memorial to Princess Di.

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Westminster Abbey

The resting place of the royals, Westminster Abbey is one of the most visited churches in the Christian world. It’s a beautiful building, full of morose tombs and monuments, with an acoustic field that will send shivers down your spine when the choirboys clear their throats. In September 1997, millions of people around the world saw the inside of the Abbey when TV crews covered Princess Di’s funeral service. Since then the number of visitors has increased by 300%, and the visit is now more restricted, with some areas cordoned off.

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Over the entrance to the abbey, are the ten martyrs of the 20th century. These are people who the Church of England believe have contributed the most to benefit others. See if you can figure out who they are! There are also numerous memorials and headstones for some of the leading people of our time.

Houses of Parliament

The awesome neo-Gothic brilliance of the Houses of Parliament has been restored thanks to a recent spring clean of the facade. The building includes the House of Commons and the House of Lords, so the grandeur of the exterior is let down only by the level of debate in the interior (’hear, hear’). There’s restricted access to the chambers when they’re in session, but a visit around 6pm will avoid the worst of the crowds. Check the time on the most recognizable face in the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben.

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Sherlock Holmes Museum

Sherlock Holmes and Doctor Watson lived in a Victorian lodging house at 221b Baker Street between 1881-1904, according to the stories written by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. The house was built in 1815 and is listed by the Government to protect its architectural and cultural heritage. It is open as a museum dedicated to the life and times of Sherlock Holmes, and the interior has been faithfully maintained for posterity exactly as described in the published stories.

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STONEHENDGE 

Five-thousand-year-old Stonehenge is the most famous prehistoric site in Europe, but it remains both a tantalizing mystery and a hackneyed tourist experience. It consists of a ring of enormous stones topped by lintels, an inner horseshoe, an outer circle and a ditch. Although aligned to the movements of the celestial bodies, little is known about the site’s purpose. What leaves most visitors gobsmacked is not the site’s religious significance but the tenacity of the people who brought some of the stones all the way from South Wales. It’s estimated that it would take 600 people to drag one of these 50-ton monsters more than half an inch. The downside of Stonehenge is that it’s fenced off like a dog compound; there are two main roads slicing past the site; entry is via an incongruous underpass; and clashes between new age hippies and police at summer solstice have become a regular feature of the British calendar. Each year New Age Druids celebrate the summer solstice, but closer access at other times is strictly limited.

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WINDSOR

Windsor Castle, with its fairy tale turrets and towers, is the largest continually inhabited castle in the world. Since it was begun by William the Conqueror in the 11th Century to its prestigious stature as the ancestral home of Queen Elizabeth II today, Windsor has stood for nearly a millennium. Winsor originated as a motte and bailey fortification as part of a defensive program instituted by William the Conqueror after his victory in 1066. It was built on the only naturally defensive site on a ridge above the Thames Valley. The castle was used primarily for defense purposes until Henry II rebuilt the castle in stone, concurrently adding extensive expansions for Windsor’s use as a State residence. The basic curtain wall and the Round Tower (as pictured at the top of this page) were also begun by Henry II. Henry III is credited with the addition of 5 circular towers added to the curtain wall. He also remodeled his predecessor’s State apartments and added a new Chapel to the castle.

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WARWICK

Warwick is situated near the center of England, a few miles from Stratford-upon-Avon. The key site in Warwick is, you guessed it, Warwick Castle!  The castle at Warwick was founded in 1086 and is the finest medieval castle in England and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the United Kingdom. A fortified town (burh) was first established at Warwick by Aethelflaed, widow of King Ethelred, in 914-6. The town was fortified against the threat of Danish invasions. After the Norman Conquest in 1066, William the Conqueror moved northwards from London, to subdue resistance in the Midlands and Northern England. He founded castles at Warwick and Nottingham, run by his Norman barons. 

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BATH

The golden city of Bath has been welcoming visitors for over 2,000 years. Designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, Bath presents some of the finest architectural sights in Europe, such as the Roman Baths, Pump Room, and the Abbey. Definitely visit the Roman Baths where you can see how the Romans lived and even drink a cup of water pumped up from the spring. They sell it at the far side of the Pump Room from a little counter for 45 pence. Do not attempt to send it back when you suspect it is harbouring the remains of Jane Austen’s dog; it’s supposed to taste like that.

Directly adjacent to the Roman Baths is the Bath Abbey. There’s been a church on this site for at least a thousand years, but the present one is “only” 500 years old, celebrating its half-millennium in 1999. The carvings on the front show the dream of Bishop Oliver King who had it built (the last Tudor church in Britain before the Reformation). Angels climbed up and down a ladder to heaven in his vision, but the only way the stonemasons could distinguish between those upwardly and downwardly mobile was to make the ones descending do it head-first. Below are pictures of the Bath Abbey and The Roman Baths.

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STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

For centuries a country market town, it became a tourist center because of its association with William Shakespeare, who was born and died there; his grave is in the parish church of Holy Trinity. The Shakespeare Center includes a library and art gallery (opened 1881) and a theater (opened 1932). Every year from March until October, Shakespeare’s plays are performed in the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. We visited Shakespeares’ birthplace pictured below.

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