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Italy is one of our favorite destinations in Europe. This country shaped like country singer’s favorite garb, a kinky over-the-knee boot, has it all: popes, painters, polenta, paramours, poets, political puerility and potentates. With over 3,000 years of history, culture and cuisine, Italy has everything you need in a vacation! Around every other corner in Italy you can visit Roman ruins, gawk at Renaissance art, stay in tiny medieval hill towns, go skiing in the Alps, explore the canals of Venice and see more beautiful churches than you imagined could exist in one country.

There’s no escaping it: Rome means history. There’s layers of the stuff - Etruscan tombs, Republican meeting rooms, Imperial temples, early-Christian churches, medieval bell towers, Renaissance palaces and baroque basilicas. In this city a phenomenal concentration of history, legend and monuments coexists with an equally phenomenal concentration of people busily going about their everyday life. It’s hard to say what you’ll find most breathtaking about the eternal city, the arrogant opulence of the Vatican, the timelessness of the Forum, or the horrible driving of the average Italian! One of our favorite past times in Italy is eating!

Naturally you can indulge in some of the best food (pizza, pasta, pomodoros) and wine (chiantis, merlots, chardonnays) in the world for a fraction of the price you’d find in the U.S. In addition, you can get a cup of coffer 100x better than anything at Starbucks for a fraction of the price - justification enough to visit this great country.

So enjoy our photos and commentary and take a dive for yourself. Italy is definitely the place to seek out la dolce vita!!!!

There’s no escaping it: Rome means history. There’s layers of the stuff - Etruscan tombs, Republican meeting rooms, Imperial temples, early-Christian churches, medieval bell towers, Renaissance palaces and baroque basilicas. In this city a phenomenal concentration of history, legend and monuments coexists with an equally phenomenal concentration of people busily going about their everyday life. It’s hard to say what you’ll find most breathtaking about the eternal city, the arrogant opulence of the Vatican, the timelessness of the Forum, the top speed of a Fiat Bambino or the bill for your latte.

To whet your appetite, here are a few shots I took around the city including: Castel St. Angelo, Michelangelo’s Moses at San Pietro in Vincoli, and the Church of San Clemente. I’ve also captured some of the more mundane images such as graphitti, statues, banks and sundials that populate the city.

Colosseo

This is Rome’s most famous ancient ruin.  The Colosseum, originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, was constructed by Vespasian in 72 AD. It is where you can also find the gardens and small lake of Domus Aurea di Nerone. It was inaugurated by his son Titus eight years later in a spectacular 100-day ceremony. First designed as a horse racing circuit, it also saw bloody contests between gladiators and fights with wild animals; however, although thousands of gladiators died here, no Christians were ever killed.

The Colosseum had a capacity of 55,000 seats and was always full. The name was written for the first time in a famous prophecy by the Venerable Bede in the 8th c. which said “while stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand. When falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall. And when Rome falls - the World”.

It is thought the name came from Nero’s Colossus, the enormous statue that stood outside the amphitheatre.

Palatino (The Palatine Hill)

Alongside the Roman Forum, this other lovely archeological area includes imperial and patrician residences. Emperor Domitian built a palace divided into two wings: a public part named Domus Flavia and a private part named Domus Augustana.

Originally the Domus Flavia had walls completely lined with polished marble because Domitian feared assassination and in this way he could see the reflection of those coming towards him. The courtyard still has its fine pavement in colored marble. The House of Livia dates to the 1st century B.C. and was the home of Emperor Augustus and his wife Livia. Fine mosaics can still be seen, along with frescoes imitating the veining of marble.

Close by there is an area in which a number of holes were found, certainly made for the posts of huts, possibly dating from the 9th century B.C.; it is thought that these were the first huts of Rome, attributed by legend to the hand of Romulus himself. Finally there are also the lovely Farnese gardens, bought by cardinal Alessandro Farnese who commissioned the gardens from architect Vignola.

Piazza Navona

During the Christmas period this square is packed with stalls selling toys, sweets and decorations for the Nativity scene or Christmas tree, making it a favourite spot for children. Its unusual shape recalls the time of Domitian who built a stadium for equestrian displays here.

After having gone through a period of total abandon, it was refurbished, and reached the height of architectural interest in the Baroque period when cardinals and noble families began to build their palaces and churches. The Fountain of the Rivers, with the obelisk, and the Fountain of the Moor, with the god of the sea, at the centre of the square, are both by Bernini.

Circo Massimo

In the fourth century b.c., the Circus Maximus was one of the largest stadia in Rome, with a capacity of 250,000 seated spectators. It was the venue for horse-races, athletics tournaments and animal fighting. The last races here were in 549 A.D.

Now it is a DUMP! As you can see from the picture above, it is not worth seeking out or visiting!!!

Pantheon

This ancient structure was built in 27 B.C. and is one of Rome’s finest, best preserved and perhaps least appreciated ancient monuments.  Its is located in Piazza della Rotonda and is known for its outstanding architectural harmony.  Originally commissioned by Marcus Agrippus, Augustus’ son-in-law, it was then restored by Domitian, rebuilt by Hadrian who built the dome, and it was finally transformed into a church by Pope Bonifacius IV in the 17th century. Originally the dome was covered in tiles of gilded bronze but the metal was removed by Pope Constant II. The opening in the dome, the oculus, is the only source of light in the Pantheon, and according to popular legend, it formed the base for the bronze pine-cone that is now in the ‘Pigna’ courtyard of the Vatican.

The floor has been restored, and the original Roman patterns are still visible. Many famous Italians are buried here, including Raphael, and Vittorio Emanuele, the first king of Italy. The best part…it’s free!!! Here are some more recent pictures I took in 2006.

Its good to see that even the Pantheon is not above commercialization!  Here are some photos I took of the Pantheon Internet Cafe and the Pantheon Bar!

San Giovanni in Laterno

San Giovanni in Laterano is the oldest church in the world. It was founded by Pope Melchiade at the start of the 4th century on the ruins of the villa of the Roman family, the Laterani, after Emperor Constantine made a gift of the property to the papacy.

The church’s current appearance was created by Borromini who remodernised the church completely for the 1650 Jubilee. Although he retained the 16th c. ceiling and floor, the architect altered the appearance by joining pairs of columns in the central nave (there are five naves in total) to make a single pillar inside which he built coloured marble niches and placed statues of the apostles. In 1735, Alessandro Galilei renewed the fagade entirely in travertine stone and crowned it with 15 statues, and at the end of the 19th century the apse was also rebuilt.

The Gothic baldacchino shown above houses two golden reliquaries containing the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul. Nearby Scala Santa also houses what are believed to be the 28 marble steps used by Jesus outside Pontius Pilate’s house in Jerusalem. Pilgrims win indulgence for their sins if they ascend the steps on their knees, reciting prayers on each step.

Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Steps)

This irregular shaped piazza features various architectural styles but the main focus is the celebrated Scalinata di Trinita dei Monti or the Spanish Steps.  These steps harmoniously connect the piazza with the pincio hill right above it.  Rome’s fashionable shopping district begins just yards from the bottom of these steps.  One of the most important fashion shows is held here and the steps are used as a catwalk!  The fountain known as the ‘Barcaccia’ (boat) was commissioned by Urbano Barberini to commemorate the alliance made with the king of France, whose coat of arms can be seen on Trinita dei Monti. The square leads into several famous streets, via dei Condotti, Via Frattina and Via Borgognona with their luxurious boutiques, and via del Babuino with its antique shops. Below we’ve added some recent pictures we took in 2006 with Lauren’s cousin.

Fontana di Trevi

You cannot visit Rome and not throw a coin in the most famous fountain in the world as a gesture of luck. Legend has it that one must throw a coin into the water to ensure a return trip to Rome!  Anita Ekberg bathed in front of it to a stupified Marcello Mastroianni in Fellini’s ‘La Dolce Vita’ and ‘Toto’, sold it to an American, passing himself off as the owner.

The design of Nicola Salvi for Pope Clemente 12th, it was completed in the second half of the 1700s. The statue represents Neptune with two Tritons at his side. The Rococo style Poli Palace stands behind the fountain.  Below are some more recent pictures we took in 2006 with Lauren’s cousin.

Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin

This church harbors some of Rome’s loveliest medieval decoration. The portico’s Bocca della Verita was made famous in the Audrey Hepburn film Roman Holiday. Originally a drain cover carved as a river god’s face, medieval legends maintain that the face will chomp on the hand of a liar. FYI, Lauren’s hand is still intact!!!

Terme di Caracalla

These baths were built in the 3rd century A.D. by the Emperor Caracalla, and they operated for about two hundred years, before the barbarian invasions and the subsequent interruption in the water supply. The area was abandoned for a certain time, and then in 1400 the first excavations began, uncovering works that can be found in Palazzo Farnese and the Vatican Museums.

As well as the ruins of the baths, there are the remains of a temple dedicated to the god Mithra, conserving the benches used for the mystic meals taken by the followers, the floor in white mosaic with black strips, and the hollow where the blood pouring down from the sacrifices collected. In August, the baths provide the backdrop for opera performances.

The Roman Forum and Trajan’s Column

Not a lot to see here except for impressive ruins of a bygone empire.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Victor Emmanuelle)

We didn’t go into the Tomb but its truly an impressive site from the street below.

Stretching for 50km (31mi) along a promontory from Sorrento to Salerno is some of Europe’s most beautiful coastline. The road hugs the zigzagging bends and curves of the cliffy coast, overlooking intensely blue waters and passing picture-postcard villages that cling to the cliff walls like matchbox houses.

Below are some picture we took of the family along the way.  Good to see that some of us were so captivated by the beauty around us that we could hardly keep our eyes open!

POSITANO

Positano is the first port of call out of Sorrento, and it’s truly sublime: tiered arcades of rose- and honey-coloured houses hover precariously over an iridescent sea, and further investigation reveals cafes and hotels to die for. This is where we witnessed my friends Amar and Lena Lalvani getting married! Farther around several intervening bends is Amalfi. Check out http://www.positanonline.it if you want to learn more about this great town!

Its former status as a supreme naval power that rivalled Pisa and Genoa is evident from its arsenal and imposing duomo. Hairpin bends separate Amalfi from Ravello, which sits like a balcony overlooking the bay. Its duomo has an interesting pulpit with six lions carved at its base, and several villas and their beautiful gardens add to its attractions.

SORRENTO

This was a quaint little town on the edge of the Amalfi Coast.  Its located between Pompeii and Positano and has all types of curio stores and shops.  We walked the streets, ate gelato and gawked at all the well tanned Italians doing nothing but living life!

One of the stores we entered was an inlaid wood works factory and showroom.  The owner is a bulky guy who looks like he could be a WWF wrestling champion.  He is accompanied by his petite sister.  The two of them are heirs to the store that their ancestors started.  Below are a few pictures I captured of him giving us a quick demo of some of their work.  Truly impressive stuff!

Along the way we stopped at several of the interesting grottoes.  Here is the green grotto aptly named because, guess what, its green!

SALERNO

Salerno has seen it all, from Etruscan to Roman and medieval times. Unfortunately, the city was extensively damaged during WWII, as it was one of the Allies’ major landing sites. We had a nice lunch here and wandered the many stores.  Not a lot to see here unless you enjoy beaches.  Then you could probably stay here forever!

Easily accessible from Naples is enigmatic Pompeii, the thriving resort town for wealthy Romans that was buried under ash and mud during the devastating eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. The vast ruins provide a fascinating insight into how the ancient Romans lived, and include impressive temples, a forum, one of the largest known Roman amphitheaters, luxurious houses with frescoes and mosaics, and streets lined with shops. One of the most disturbing images of Pompeii are the Dead. The people were literally petrified in their fright and are still preserved in the same stances at their deaths. The streets and pedestrian crossings of Pompeii are well worn and are very uneven. Probably more comfortable if you are riding a horse. Throughout the entire city, you will have an opportunity to look into many homes and see how the people of Pompeii lived. This is especially well depicted through the wall and floor frescoes which you can see throughout the city. Much like the Romans, the people of Pompeii loved their sports and had their own share of stadiums and arenas. They also loved their food and their stoves were massive! The city was especially well made and advanced in certain areas such as their water and heating system.

Brothel (Lupenar)

This small brothel (the Lupenar) is the most popular stop on any tour (and probably was one of the most popular places back in the day as well!). It contains several bedstalls and above each stall a pornographic painting depicts, with unabashed precision, the specialty of its occupant. Its kinda like a menu! After 2,000 years, this remains the most popular place in town so try to get here early. I’ve taken photos of a few of the choice rooms for your viewing enjoyment!

The cultural and historical impact of Florence can be overwhelming but it is definitely the place to visit in Italy. Close up, Florence is one of Italy’s most atmospheric and pleasant cities, retaining a strong resemblance to the small late-medieval center that contributed so much to the cultural and political development of Europe.

Many of Michaelangelo’s greatest hits including David make Florence their home. While Rome is a historical hot-pot, Florence is like stepping back into a Fiat and Vespa-filled Renaissance: the shop-lined Ponte Vecchio, the trademark Duomo, the gem-filled Uffizi Gallery, the turreted Piazza della Signoria and the Medici Chapels. Thankfully, these unforgettables are all within walking distance of each other. This was by far our favorite city in Italy and not to be missed!!

Surrounding the rear of the Pitti Palace are some of Florence’s most precious and breathtaking parks: the Boboli Gardens. A perfect example of formal Renaissance landscaping, the gardens include pools, fountains, geometric borders, tree-lined vistas, a grotto and the star-shaped Forte di Belvedere.

If you’ve got the energy, it’s worth heading down Via del Belvedere to reach Piazzale Michelangelo, which offers one of the most beautiful views of magical Florence. Below is a picture of Lauren with our friend Ingo.

Piazza del Duomo

The remarkable Duomo, with its pink, white and green marble façade and characteristic dome, dominates the city’s skyline. The building took almost two centuries to build (and even then the façade wasn’t completed until the 19th century), and is the fourth-largest cathedral in the world. The enormous dome was designed by Brunelleschi, and its interior features frescoes and stained-glass windows by some of the Renaissance-era’s best: Vasari, Zuccari, Donatello, Uccello and Ghiberti. Take a deep breath and climb up to take a closer look, and you’ll be rewarded by fantastic views of the city and an insight into how the dome was so cleverly constructed - without scaffolding (though there’s plenty of that propping the dome up now!). The dome still defines the scale of the city, and no building in town is taller.

Giotto designed the cathedral’s Campanile, and Pisano and della Robbia contributed bas-reliefs. It too is clad in white, pink and green marble. The Baptistry is adjacent - it’s one of the city’s oldest buildings, and was originally a pagan temple. The building is most famous for its gilded bronze doors. Those on the south are by Pisano, but it is the doors facing east (and in the direction of the cathedral) that are most talked about. Created by Ghiberti, they are known as the Gates of Paradise (a moniker believed to have been dubbed by Michelangelo). Created between 1424 and 1452, their beauty and sophistication mark them as one of the first products of the Renaissance. The Baptistry’s ceilings feature gory 13th-century mosaics of the Last Judgment.

Behind the cathedral is the Duomo Museum, which features original panels taken from the doors of the Baptistry, Brunelleschi’s death mask, equipment used to build the dome and an impressive sculpture collection, including pieces by Michelangelo.

Below are some pictures we too at the top of the Campanile and stairways which contain numerous interesting statues.

Piazza della Signoria

The piazza was at the hub of Florence’s political life through the centuries, and is surrounded by some of the city’s most celebrated buildings. With its famous group of sculptures, the loggia looks a lot like an outdoor sculpture gallery; Cellini’s magnificent statue of Perseus and Giambologna’s Rape of a Sabine are particularly striking.

Guarding the Palazzo Vecchio is a copy of Michelangelo’s oh-so-strokeable David. The palazzo has been Florence’s town hall since 1322. Its characterful tower is another of Florence’s symbols, and the interior of the palazzo was lavishly redecorated by Vasari. An elevated corridor called Vasari’s Corridor leads from the palazzo, through the Uffizi, across the Arno by way of the Ponte Vecchio, and all the way down to the Palazzo Pitti. The private walkway was used by the Medici family as a way of visiting their scattered palaces without having to mingle with the masses. The walkway is lined, as if merely as an afterthought, with works of art. Below are pictures of the Rape of a Sabine, David, Neptune, and Perseus.

The Uffizi

Backing onto the loggia, and leading all the way down to the banks of the River Arno, is the famed Uffizi Gallery. The gallery’s wonderful collection is arranged to illustrate the evolving story of Florentine art. Some of the most famous pieces are in rooms 7-18; they include Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Titian’s Venus of Urbino, Michelangelo’s Holy Family and Piero della Francesca’s Duke & Duchess of Urbino.  Giorgio Vasari designed this palace in 1554 for Duke Cosimo and called it the Uffizi because it housed the offices (uffizi) of the Medici administration. Today it holds more great art per square inch than any other museum in the world. In May 1993, terrorists set of a bomb in the Uffizi, killing five people and destroying priceless works of art. So be prepared for a great deal of security.

Below you can see some of the statues that line the courtyard of the Uffizi Gallery. Included are statues of Dante and Michelangelo, DaVinci and Donatello, Galileo and Micheli, and Machiavelli.

Below is a picture of Lauren at the Uffizi and the room which was literally the “Rome With A View”!

The Ponte Vecchio

If you make it out of the Uffizi with any energy and concentration left to spare, wander along the banks of the Arno towards the Ponte Vecchio.

The famous 14th-century bridge is lined with shops selling gold and silver jewellery - a step up from the butcher shops that lined the bridge before Cosimo I decided glitter was better than gore. The bridge was the only one in the city to escape destruction during WWII.

Santa Croce

If you experience a peculiar giddy feeling after visiting the Church of Santa Croce, don’t despair. It’s probable that you’ve succumbed to Stendhal’s Disease, an illness diagnosed in about 12 visitors to Florence each year, and dating from the French writer’s own feelings of culture shock and bedazzlement when he visited the church in the early 19th century.

Geometrically coloured marble decorates the building’s façade (added in the 19th century), but the real treats lie inside, where many famous Florentines lie in peace, hopefully immune to the tourist footfalls. The walls are lined with tombs, and 276 tombstones pave the floor. The church’s most famous inhabitants are Michelangelo, Macchiavelli, Galileo and Bardi. Its various chapels feature works of art by Giotto and della Robbia, and the serene cloisters were designed by Brunelleschi.

Santa Croce’s museum features a crucifix by Cimabue, which unfortunately was severely damaged by the 1966 floods. Other churches which shouldn’t be missed include the statue-filled Orsanmichele; Santa Trinità, featuring frescoes by Ghirlandaio; All Saints’, with frescoes by Botticelli and Ghirlandaio; Santa Maria Novella, which contains Masaccio’s groundbreaking Trinity, along with other significant artworks; the popular SS Annunziata; Giambologna’s San Marco; and the Church of the Holy Spirit, one of Brunelleschi’s last commissions, and featuring Filippino Lippi’s Madonna & Child.

Just around the corner from Santa Croce you’ll stumble across Casa Buonarroti, a house which Michelangelo owned but never lived in.

Today, you’ll find a collection of copies of the master’s work. You’ll find the real thing, however, at the Accademia Gallery: David in all his glory.  There is also a leather school which has some interesting works.

Piazza San Lorenzo

This lovely area is redolent of Florence in its prime, when Cosimo was king and cultural creativity abounded. San Lorenzo Basilica was begun by Brunelleschi in 1425 and is regarded as one of the city’s purest Renaissance churches. The eastern façade is especially interesting, as it is completely bare of decoration and reveals the antique brickwork. It was the Medici family’s parish church, and many of the members of the family are buried here. Donatello designed the bronze pulpits, and he is buried in one of the chapels. Passing through the cloister, you reach the Laurenziana Library, commissioned to house the family’s huge collection of books and featuring a sublime staircase by Michelangelo. The Medici Chapels are sumptuously decorated with precious marble and semiprecious stones; the most powerful Medicis were buried here. The New Sacristy was designed by Michelangelo and contains his Night & Day, Dawn & Dusk sculptures.

Adjacent to the basilica are atmospheric palazzos, with interior courtyards glimpsed through ancient wooden gates, and the especially bustling central market - the place to find bargain woollens and leather goods, especially if you’re willing to bargain.  Below are some pictures of the interior chapel and the Laurentian Library. This library houses one of the world’s most valuable manuscript collections. Michaelangelo’s famous entrance portico is shown above with me!

Medici Crest

This is the crest of the Medici family. They were the richest family in the city and sponsored most of the local artists of the time. They were the “Godfathers” of the time!!

Bargello Museum

The Bargello Museum contains the most comprehensive range of medieval and Renaissance sculpture in Italy. Notable works include Michelangelo’s drunken Bacchus, Donatello’s David, the designs submitted by Brunelleschi for the Baptistry Doors Competition (Ghiberti won that one) and Giambologna’s Mercury. The Bargello’s heavily fortified exterior is a reminder of the building’s former life as police headquarters and prison. Not too far away from the Bargello is Dante’s House, a small museum that examines the famous Florentine’s life.

Accademia

Michelangelo’s triumphant David stands in self-assured prefection under the rotunda designed just for him. He was moved here from P. della Signoria in 1873 after a stone hurled during a riot broke his left wrist in two places. If the real David looks different to you that the slightly top-heavy copy in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, there’s a reason - even though the statues are practically identical, in the Accademia, David stands on a higher pedestal.

Michelangelo exaggerated his head and torso to correct for distortion from viewing far below. In the hallway leading up to the David are Michelangelo’s four Slaves. The master left these intriguing statues intentionally unfinished. Remaining true to his theories of living stone, he chipped away only enough to show their figure emerging from the stone.

Mercato Nuovo

The loggia of the New Market have housed gold and silk traders since 1547 under their Corinthian-columned splendor. Today vendors sell purses, belts, clothes, fruit and vegetables as well as gold and silk, from dawn until dusk. Pietro Tacca’s pleasantly plump statue, Il Porcellino (The Little Pig), actually a wild boar, appeared some 50 years after the market first opened. Reputed to bring good luck, its snout remains brightly polished by tourists’ rubbing.

San Miniato Al Monte

One of Florence’s oldest churches, San Miniato al Monte gloriously surveys all of Florence.  The inlaid marble facade and 13th-century mosaics provide a prelude to the incredible pavement inside, patterned with lions, doves, and astrological signs. Inside, the Chapel of the Cardinal of Portugal holds a collection of superlative della Robbia terra-cottas. Be sure to circle the church and spend a moment in the cemetery.

If you’ve been living on another planet, then you may not know that the Vatican City is where the Pope, or leader of the Roman Catholic Church, resides.  It is a city unto a city in the heart of Rome.  They have their own separate government, rule of law, police and even post office.  If you ever visit Rome, you will never forgive yourself if you fail to visit the Vatican.  Among the many wonders of the the Catholic Church, the city houses The Sistine Chapel and Michaelangelo’s Pieta - two of the defining works of art in Western civilization. To whet your appetite, below are pictures of the Vatican City guards, crest, grottoes and surrounding environs. 

Vatican Museums

This small yet impressive collection is divided into many small museums linked by corridors. The Egyptian museum is one of the most visited and although it is not a very large collection it is well displayed and the rooms are decorated in Egyptian style. The Chiaramonti Gallery is dedicated to Roman and Greek sculpture. The Pius Clementine museum hosts the famous Greek statue of the ‘Laocoonte with serpents’. The Etruscan museum also houses a large selection of Greek and Roman works. The Galleria degli Candelabri e degli Arazzi is one of the museums which is less well-known but filled with lots of treasures; they exhibit both candelabras and tapestries (Arazzi) which were woven by the Flemish master, Pieter van Aelst, taken from cartoons by Raphael. Another interesting room contains geographical maps which are extremely precise, given that they are from the 16th century.

The Raphael rooms are one of the masterpieces of this vast collection where a series of rooms are each painted with a different theme by the ‘Grande Maestro’. Amongst the most well-known is the fresco of ‘The School of Athens’ where contemporary artists impersonated classical characters, for example, Leonardo da Vinci is portrayed as Plato.

There are six Borgia rooms, which were decorated for Pope Alexander VI by Pinturicchio and his pupils. The Sistine Chapel shows itself in all its beauty after a period of restoration. Many artists of calibre participated in the completion of this chapel, including Michelangelo, Perugino, Botticelli, Ghirlandaio, Pinturicchio and many others. The two hands that almost touch in the ‘Creation of Adam’ are instantly recognisable having appeared in many reproductions.

The Pinacoteca rounds off the collection with works from the Byzantine school, French and Dutch masters, the inimitable Titian, Raphael with his final work ‘The Transfiguration’, Caravaggio, and Leonardo’s ‘Saint Jerome’. A special permit is needed to visit Raphael’s Loggia, the Vatican Archives and the Vatican Library.

San Pietro

Every year, millions of visitors come here to hear the Pope speak and to receive the blessing on Sundays at noon. Since the original Constantinian basilica of 320 AD, St Peter’s has undergone various changes and radical transformations.

Among the major works of art we enjoyed included: The majestic dome, designed by Michelangelo, but completed only after his death by Giacomo della Porta and Domenico Fontana, is a sight to behold.  In addition, be sure to walk among Bernini’s magnificent colonnades which surrounds the piazza.  If you want the “million dollar” view of the square, be sure to trudge to the top of the dome.  If you want the “Pope” view, then you’re out of luck because the public is not allowed into the Pope’s chambers.  However, you can see where he waves to the crowd.  Its known as the Papal window and is pictured below.

If you thought the exterior was impressive, wait until you walk into the interior.  Stepping in St. Peters reminds of the power the Church once wielded in ancient times.  Statues litter the floor in ever corner and the faces tell tales of anguish, despair and jubilation - all the levers of humanity!

However, there of all the statues, the most famous is to your right as you enter.  It is Michelangelo’s La Pieta, which the artist finished at the age of 25. I’ve included a somewhat grainy picture below largely due to the fact that its enclased in glass.  We understand that this was because when the statue was lent to museums in the USA, a crazed observer attacked the statue and chipped it.  As a result, the public can no longer view it up close and personal.  The Holy Door, which is situated next to the statue of the Pieta, is opened only during Holy Year and has some very impressive carvings.

Giotto is represented by a mosaic, currently in the Holy Caverns, and a polyptych on the high altar. Numerous artists worked together on the decoration and on the design of St Peter’s: Bramante designed the interior floor plan, subsequently modified, of the cathedral; added to his design were two cupolas by Vignola; Pietro da Cortona made the Trinity for the Cappella del Sacramento in addition to executing the cartoons of the mosaics, terminated only after his death by one of his finest pupils, Ciro Ferri; and Antonio Canova produced the monument to Pope Clement XIII Rezzonico.

There’s no escaping it: Venice is unique. For a start, this is a pedestrian’s city on a very human scale; cars are almost nonexistent, and beguiling narrow paths take the place of ugly city roads. The harmonious architecture seems to have sprung uniformly from somewhere between the 12th and 16th century, its secretive walls and enticing balconies sparkling with flashes of water glimpsed through cracks and windows. Dark paths suddenly emerge into the clear, bright daylight of a pigeon-packed piazza or cross the city’s myriad canals by way of numerous and wonderful little bridges. The atmosphere is magical and inexplicably festive.

The city is built on 117 small islands, and is linked to the mainland service town of Mestre by a road and rail causeway. The Grand Canal insinuates itself around the city, emerging at the unforgettable vista of Piazza San Marco, boasting its campanile, Doges’ Palace, St Mark’s Basilica and elegant piazza. The Bridge of Sighs links the palace to the gloomy old prisons, and the bobbing gondolas are overlooked by the stunning Santa Maria della Salute, San Giorgio Maggiore and del Redentore churches. It takes only half an hour or so to walk from the train station to San Marco - if you can resist the temptation to take one of the many paths that diverge from the main drag (Lista di Spagna).

To appreciate the fine palaces that line the Grand Canal, swallow your ‘but I’m not really a tourist’ phlegm and take a gondola. Below are pictures I took at a local Gondola shipyard (Squero) and Gondola school.  Although I was on the hunt, I never did find a Gondola sandwich…!

The Accademia Bridge leads to a quieter Venice and the Galleria dell’Accademia, with its collection of Venetian masters. The nearby Peggy Guggenheim Gallery updates your walk through history and art, with its fine collection of early-20th-century works.

As you weave through the “streets” of Venice on Vaporetto (water bus) or Gondola, be sure to admire the many interesting buildings built on the canal edge.  In particular, don’t miss Ca’ D’Oro’s “Wedding Cake”Facade and Venetian Blinds pictured below.

For a quick drink, you can stop by the major tourist joint, Harry’s Bar, or you can do what we did and travel to the other side of Venice that is less touristy.  There we found an authentic wine store where locals brought their vats for red wine refill.  I forget the exact price of the wine but I do remember is was in the single digit francs per liter!! A word of caution - if you end up staggering to your hotel room, don’t be surprised if your face is immortalized on a police camera.  They seemed to be everywhere.

Gallerie dell’Accademia

This is a nice museum on the banks of the canal (although everything I guess is on the banks of the canal).  There was an interesting exhibit on DaVinci while we were there that demonstrated the breadth of his innovation and spirit.  Below I took a picture of gears that he designed.

Piazza del Duomo

The remarkable Duomo, with its pink, white and green marble façade and characteristic dome, dominates the city’s skyline. The building took almost two centuries to build (and even then the façade wasn’t completed until the 19th century), and is the fourth-largest cathedral in the world. The enormous dome was designed by Brunelleschi, and its interior features frescoes and stained-glass windows by some of the Renaissance-era’s best: Vasari, Zuccari, Donatello, Uccello and Ghiberti. Take a deep breath and climb up to take a closer look, and you’ll be rewarded by fantastic views of the city and an insight into how the dome was so cleverly constructed - without scaffolding (though there’s plenty of that propping the dome up now!). The dome still defines the scale of the city, and no building in town is taller.

Giotto designed the cathedral’s Campanile, and Pisano and della Robbia contributed bas-reliefs. It too is clad in white, pink and green marble. The Baptistry is adjacent - it’s one of the city’s oldest buildings, and was originally a pagan temple. The building is most famous for its gilded bronze doors. Those on the south are by Pisano, but it is the doors facing east (and in the direction of the cathedral) that are most talked about. Created by Ghiberti, they are known as the Gates of Paradise (a moniker believed to have been dubbed by Michelangelo). Created between 1424 and 1452, their beauty and sophistication mark them as one of the first products of the Renaissance.

The Baptistry’s ceilings feature gory 13th-century mosaics of the Last Judgment. Behind the cathedral is the Duomo Museum, which features original panels taken from the doors of the Baptistry, Brunelleschi’s death mask, equipment used to build the dome and an impressive sculpture collection, including pieces by Michelangelo. The mosaics illustrating the life of San Marco are particularly spellbinding in their wealth of iconography and richness of materials.  From below you can also admire the symbols of Venice, the Winged Lion and St. Mark.

The Basilica houses the gallery and the Marciano museum which contains the original Bronze horses, copies of which are now on the terrace, and the golden altarpiece, a masterpiece of the gothic goldsmithery, displayed behind the altar. This can be seen from the whole of the lagoon, and, once you have reached the top, the whole lagoon can be seen from above. There is a splendid panoramic view from the tallest belltower in Venice. Even though today’s tower was erected at the beginning of the twentieth century, it was rebuilt exactly like the fifteenth century belltower. In 1609, Galileo Galilei exhibited his telescope here, and during the carnival the belltower used to serve as a stage for the tight rope-walkers who entertained the Doge with their acrobatics.

If you have time, I also suggest you check out the Doge’s Apartments.  They really lived in style.  Below are picture of the interior and some interesting amenities including a Lion’s Mouth Mailbox For denouncing your neighbors!

Piazza San Marco Piazza

San Marco (or ‘St Mark’s Square’) is an optical illusion. When you’re at the bottom of the piazza, facing the basilica, the piazza itself seems immense.

It is actually only 175m long. The reason for this is that on the same side as the basilica it is 82m wide whereas on the other side, it is only 57m wide. So, what appears to be a rectangle is in reality a trapezium, and it is this that makes it seem larger than it actually is. On both sides of the piazza are the ‘Procuratie’ buildings which are where the procurators of San Marco were housed. They can be divided into: old buildings, more recent buildings, and most recent buildings.

On your left hand side as you face the basilica are the old buildings, probably built by Codussi, and on your right hand side you will see the more recent buildings, built by Longhena in 1640. The most recent buildings - commissioned by Napoleon in 1810 - are behind you.

Ponte dei Sospiri / The Bridge of Sighs

For a long time, it was said that this was a place where lovers met. Actually this isn’t strictly true. The bridge, which was built from a design by Antonio Contino, is a Baroque construction and was intended to link two parallel passages: one for prisoners and one for magistrates. One of the passages led to the newly built prisons and the other to strongholds, which were known as wells. However, these were never underground as was commonly believed, but at street level.

When people think of Pisa, they generally think of one thing only. Each year millions of tourists animate the town’s famous Campo dei Miracoli as they marvel at the famous leaning tower, creating a t-shirt buying, ice-cream-licking, photosnapping wasteland. The tower is undoubtably remarkable, and it would be impressive even if it were perpendicular to the ground. But if your journey to Pisa, make sure you budget a good morning. We visited the tower, cathedral, baptistery and other buildings that share the same piazza as the famous tower.

Pisa’s history has had its share of twists and turns. In the Middle Ages, when the unclogged Arno river flowed to the sea, the city earned its living as a port, and Pisa’s Mediterranean empire extended to Corsica, Sardinia, and the Balearics. When the Arno filled with silt, Pisa’s fortunes dried up. After the tower tantalized travelers and brought millions of lira to the waning town, Pisa began to recover. If you want to learn more about Pisa (i.e., where to stay, what to do, etc.), you can check out this web site: http://www.pisaonline.it/.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa

Although Pisa is a nice quaint town, this is the ONLY reason to visit Pisa! The Tower of Pisa is the bell tower of the Cathedral.  Its construction began in 1173 and continued (with two long interruptions) for about 200 years!! (*Makes the “Big Dig” in Boston, MA not that bad, huh?*).  The local lore has it that the leaning of the Tower was part of the project ever since its beginning but now we know that was a lie!

The Tower was designed to be vertical but started to incline during its construction. During its construction efforts were made to halt the inclination through the use of special construction devices which continue even to this day! It was definitely worth a visit and contrary to the guide books, you can visit the Tower and walk to the top. Of course it costs you 15 Euros!!!  If you want to learn more about the tower, you can visit the official web site at http://torre.duomo.pisa.it/.

Below is the symbol of Italy, the Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Dreams) and the Baptistry