dave liu dot com

Phuket is the biggest island in Thailand, located in the Andaman Sea off southern Thailand. The island is mostly mountainous with a mountain range in the west and the rest of the island covered by forest. The western coast has several sandy beaches, while on the east coast beaches are more often muddy. One of the most popular tourist areas on Phuket is Patong Beach on the central western coast, perhaps owing to the easy access to its wide and long beach. Most of Phuket’s nightlife and its cheap shopping is located in Patong, and the area has become increasingly developed. Patong means “the forest filled with banana leaves” in Thai. Other popular beaches are located south of Patong. In a counterclockwise direction these include Karon Beach, Kata Beach, Kata Noi Beach, and around the southern tip of the island, Nai Harn Beach and Bang Tao Beach. These areas are generally much less developed than Patong, and sought out by individuals, families and other groups with a preference for more relaxed and less crowded environs than Patong.

Growing up, I remember Phuket as one of those places that expatriates from Hong Kong would visit during the December months to get away from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. This year, I had the pleasure of spending a few days on the island as part of my in-law’s family reunion. It was everything I expected with its sandy beaches and laid back environment. As expected the weather was quite tropical and the heat and humidity were quite intense on certain days.

During our time there, we stayed at a ClubMed which was stocked with friendly tourists from around the world. The facility is located right on Kata Beach and, aside from general hotel and restaurant accommodations, supplies nightly entertainment and activities including trapeze, acrobats, and cobra shows. We also had the opportunity to try Thai Massages. These entail a masseuse using his/her elbows and feet to dig into your body. They don’t use any oils and its definitely worth trying at least once. Massage parlors are extremely common in Phuket – I think I saw almost one every block.

The region is just starting to recover from the after affects of the tsunami that devastated the region, and most of the coastal cities of Southeast Asia. As we walked through the city, we saw signs that indicated the path to “Tsunami Hazard Zones”. We were told that in the event of another tsunami, these would be areas where one would be in danger and there would be areas where one would be safe. I never bothered to ask but isn’t that a bit like predicting the location of where it will rain next? Well, I’m at least glad they are making precautions.

If you have some time, don’t forget to try the transvestite shows. We went to the Sphinx Restaurant where we had a good European style dinner and then were treated to a lip synching extravaganza performed by men and she-men! These are very common throughout Thailand!

Wat Chalong

If you’ve been to the grand temples of Bangkok and Ayutthaya, then you really don’t need to visit. However, if you love temples then this is the place for you! We took the opportunity to try our hand at a little of the local customs and Lauren pressed some of the customary gold leaf into the statues. This is meant to answer your prayers!

Phang Nga (James Bond) and Koh Pannyi (Sea Gypsy) Islands

Phang Nga or James Bond Island was aptly named due to its starring role in the James Bond movie, “Man With the Golden Gun”. To get to the island you have to take a Thai long boat through several dense rivers, through a cavern and into the ocean. The scenery is great and there are lots of pictures to be taken but no much else aside from the throngs of tourist stalls conveniently located on the limited beach front.  On the return to the mainland, we had lunch at a local seafood restaurant built on the island of Koh Pannyi, also known as the Sea Gypsy Island. The island has a whole host of these buildings essentially builts over the water and the biggest building on the island is a mosque.

Siam Safari

Of all the tourist activities in Phuket, this was the one we most enjoyed and would highly recommend. You definitely get a good overview of the various aspects of jungle life in Thailand in a safe, family friendly environment. We were treated to a curry cooking demonstrations, coconut de-husking, and interactions with numerous animals. Below I’ve added some video showing monkeys removing coconuts from the tops of trees and elephants dancing for fruit!

Below are some pictures showing us interacting with water buffalo and riding elephants!

As the only Southeast Asian people never ruled by a Western power, Thais possess a unique and independent cultural heritage which they have maintained despite meteoric development and industrialization. “The Land of Smiles” might be a trite title but it is remarkably accurate. Wherever I went, I encountered friendly people willing to show the unique facets of the Thai culture. During my stay in Thailand, I was able to learn its history, accomplish some hilltribe trekking, visit ancient temples, brave the bustling cities, experience village life, and appreciate its natural beauty.

We began in Bangkok, with its shimmering temples, colorful markets and simple rural life off back canals. North of the capital we visited the former capital of Ayutthaya, a temple city that was once covered in gold. Then, by train, we traveled north to lovely Chiang Mai, a center of great folk arts and the starting point for our highland trek among the colorful hilltribes. We’ve included pictures from our trek and descriptions of some of the sights that we were able to see during our visit from July 12 to July 20, 1999. Enjoy!

Once known as the Venice of the East because of its dependence on canals for transport, Bangkok today is a bustling metropolis with some of Asia’s top hotels and attractions. Though the city’s main sights are its temples and palaces, what stayed most with me during our visits were the people and the pace of life. I encourage you to spend a few days in Bangkok but plan your time and visits wisely. It can be unbearably hot during the summer and the traffic jams can easily inflict road rage on even the most laid back traveler.

Some of my favorite sites included the Wat Phra Kaew or Temple of the Emerald Buddha. This is one of Asia’s most spectacular temple complexes and it certainly worth a visit. In the cloisters you will see the Ramakian epic (a Thai version of the Indian Ramayana) and at the upper terrace there is the golden Phra Si Ratana Chedi, a mosaic-studded scripture library, and the Royal Pantheon, where brightly colored statues of monkeys and demons support two gilt stupas. Next comes the most important aspect of the complex for many Thais: the tiny jade Buddha image that resides in the Emerald Buddha Temple itself. Be sure to wear the appropriate attire (no shorts or open shoulders) at all Thai temples and be deferential to the worshippers at these sites.

In the same complex, we walked through the fusion of Western and Eastern architecture styles of the Grand Palace which is the former home of the Thai royal family and is still used for royal ceremonies. The most striking building is the Dusit Hall which is capped by a four-tiered roof. Along the west side of the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, Bangkok’s biggest and oldest temple. The main attraction here is the 151 foot long reclining Buddha image, the feet of which are inlaid with mother-of-pearl designs The whole complex has lots more to see including almost 100 stupas and statues.

Calypso Cabaret

This is one of Bangkok’s longest running transvestite shows and is performed in a 200-seat theater. As a red blooded heterosexual male, I can honestly admit that even I had a hard time believing that these people used to be men. Its one of those things that you really have to see to believe. Sources tell me that these performers have had the necessary operations to remove all vestiges of their former lives. I think I’ll take their word for it! Man or woman? You be the judge!

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and the Grand Palace

The Grand Palace is the center of religious life for the Thai people. Its 945,000 square meters of grounds hold more than 100 buildings that represent over 200 years of royal history and architectural experimentation. These are the preeminent sights in Bangkok. Women have to wear a long skirt and cover their shoulders and men have to wear pants and a button-down shirt. In front of the entrance to the Grand Palace stands the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Inside the main chapel building is the Emerald Buddha, the most sacred Buddha image in Thailand. It was discovered in 1434 when lightning shattered a chedi (tower) in the northern city of Chiang Rai. An abbot found a stucco Buddha inside. He took the stucco off to reveal the Emerald Buddha. These pictures depict some of the buildings in the temple compound and the halls of the Grand Palace. Notice that several of the buildings have a European flavor to them. This was because the king at the time admired the palaces of the European monarchy. In addition, the courtyards are littered with Chinese statues, many of which were gifts from the Chinese emperors.

Chao Phraya River

At times we explored the city by longtail boat. As you can seen in these pictures, the water is quite filthy (almost on par with the River Ganges in India). However, many people bathe in the river and live on its shores. We even managed to feed catfish that live in the river (we resisted the temptation to catch any of them for dinner). Bangkok’s canals offer exceptional sightseeing opportunities and a quieter, quicker alternative to any road-based transport. Some of the smaller canals wind through dense foliage flanked with stilted houses and small temples. We rode the longtail boats of Bangkok and even passed some mobile food stalls.

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)

The name of this wat (temple) is derived from Aruna, the Hindu god of dawn. It was built during the Ayutthayan period, and its Khmer architecture (see my pictures from Cambodia) reflects the influence of the neighboring Angkor kingdom. Wat Arun’s distinctive 79m prang (center tower), was built in the Khmer style and is inlaid with ceramic tiles and porcelain. Our guide informed us that the temple’s phallic shape was not accidental. In the Hindu religion, the phallus (or lingham) is representative of the god Shiva and is a very sacred symbol. We seemed to encounter these phalluses wherever we went in Southeast Asia.

Tuk-Tuks

One way to get around town is by tuk-tuk. These three-wheeled motorized vehicles scour the city and generally try to rip you off. You should be able to get prices at least 30% cheaper than taxi fares. Be sure not to get scammed!

Wat Traimit or the Temple of the Golden Buddha

This temple is located in Chinatown and is home to the Giant Golden Buddha, a three meter, five ton, pure gold Sukhothai-style statue. When the Burmese sacked Ayutthaya, the people of the capital saved the statue by covering it with stucco. Its true identity remained a secret until 1955, when the statue slipped from a moving crane as it was being transported to Wat Traimit. Cracks developed in the plaster, the stucco was removed, and the Golden Buddha was rediscovered.

Chiang Mai is an interesting city in the north of Thailand. We visited Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, one of Thailand’s most sacred pilgrimage sights perched on the hillside of one of the mountains overlooking the city of Chiang Mai. The name of the temple is derived from the hermit who inhabited the area before the shrine was built (Suthep) and the Buddha relics enshrined in the temple - namely his incus (a teeny anvil shaped bone in the middle ear). The relic is said to be inside the large golden chedi in the center of the temple. While we were there, Lauren gave alms according to her day of birth.

Another interesting experience in Chiang Mai, is a Khantoke dinner. This was a serious culinary experience. In this formal Northern Thai meal, diners sit on the floor and use their hands to eat from bowls placed on a low tray table called a khantoke. The dinner typically consists of glutinous rice, two meat dishes and two vegetable dishes. You can eat as much as you want (and we did!) and the dinner is followed by traditional Thai dancing. Following the dinner, we were escorted to a nearby auditorium where local villages perform their traditional dances in their traditional costumes. As you can see in the photos, these people really do wear these costumes in the villages.

The following day we set off early in the morning for a trek through a region famous for its hill tribes and their fields of opium producing poppies. The opium is gone but the countryside is littered with rice fields, corn fields, waterfalls and temples. During our first day of trekking we visited the Lisu, Lahu and Akha villages. We stayed overnight in an Akha village with no running water and electricity and experienced village life firsthand. We were awoken to the sounds of cockerels crowing, drank local moonshine made from corn, saw a pig get slaughtered and flayed, had an authentic Khantoke dinner, and made friends with the local children.

During our time there I realized how many of our modern conveniences I take for granted and also marveled at the ability of these villagers to get by with so little. Even cooking was done the local way - in an open pit! Without electricity and no lights, we slept at night (approximately 7 p.m.) and rose early the next day to the sounds of cockerels crowing (approximately 4 am). We typically showered using still water and used the same source for drinking as well! We watched the hilltribe people at their daily chores: killing animals and livestock, tending their elephants, heading to the fields, pounding rice by hand, and weaving textiles. After trekking through the countryside and Karen villages, we took an elephant ride (for about 1 hour) to a Palong village, Pang Deang, were we stayed overnight. The colorful Palong tribe originate from Myanmar (Burma). During our stay in the village, some Australian tourists actually mistook us for Thai locals and took a photograph of us on an elephant (go figure?). Some of our pictures include a local Karen boy and Palong villagers who were kind enough to sing for us.

Further along our trek we visited the Chiang Dao Caves. These caves were filled with old Buddha images, bizarre cave formations and thousands of bats. Outside the temple there were ponds filled with scores of carp, a symbol of prosperity.

After breakfast we started trekking for about 2 hours to the Mae Taeng River. There we took a bamboo raft for a trip on the river for about 1 hour. The water was relatively clean and extremely shallow. Some notable sights along the way included people fishing, trees covered with hornets nests, and a dead dog floating in the middle of the river.

Wat Chedi Luang was a temple built by King Saen Suang Ma in 1401 holds the remains of Chiang Mai’s largest chedi (monument/stupa) which once rose 86m above the ground. A naga (serpent) staircase adores the bot (chapel) which houses a gold Buddha and 32 story panels depicting the life of Buddha.

Wararot Market Shopping is quite an experience in Thailand. Markets are typically located in dilapidated buildings with food products on the lower floors and textiles on the upper floors. As with every market in Southeast Asia, bargaining is a way of life. Don’t ever pay more than 50% of the opening price unless you’re stupid or you feel charitable!

On the west side of the island is the Wat Phra Si Sanphet, a temple that contains three charred chedi (burned by the Burmese) . Now empty, they once contained the bones of the successive Ayutthayan kings Rama I, II and III. Wat Phra Si Sanphet.  Also of interest is the Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, a building that shelters one of Thailand’s largest Buddha images (and is sponsored by Coca-Cola). Shameless sponsorship!!?? Finally of interest is the Wat Maha That.  This wat houses some interesting images. As you can see in my pictures, there is a Buddha statue that was completely covered by the roots of a tree, save its head, so that it gives the illusion that the Buddha is growing from the tree. Very unique!